Amer Fort

How to get there

Amer Fort is located North of Jaipur and is quite large in size. By the time I got to Jaipur I was thinking that maybe I had seen one too many forts, but I had a free afternoon after arriving so I went up to take a look. It’s nice to see the old city wall that stretches out from the fort. It almost reminds you of the Great Wall Of China.

It’s about 40 minutes North of city centre. Although you will go a lot of auto drivers that want to take you in their tuk-tuks, form a comfort point of view I would suggest that you take a car. I rented an Ola and they waited for me as I visited.

It’s very slow getting out of Jaipur city centre since there is a lot of traffic so I would suggest you budget extra time for this. The fort is open till sunset and I got some pretty good views close to sunset time.

One of the main courtyards

Audio Guide

You can rent an audio guide for Rp./200 and it worked out quite well. You can then just follow along with the numbers and wonder around the fort. In my opinion this beats a real guide because the audio guide will not get commission to take you to a shop to buy jewelry.

Safety

You can climb up quite high and it gives you some good views of the surrounding countryside. However, please be careful as some of the railings are hanging on my a thread and I would not use them for support.

The view is great, but this certainly does not look very stable.

Sound and Light show

Apparently in the evening they have a sound and light show, but I did not stay that late. It is viewed from a parking lot close by and it does get good reviews.

The lake and the view of the wall.

Scams and annoyances

Introduction

Most people in India are quite honest and helpful to foreigners (if they are not selling you a service). But in big cities there are lots and lots of scams, touts, and people that are generally a big pain in the arse to the average tourist.

Commission is huge in India (at least in major cities like Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, etc) so these people are generally just trying to make money. But to make money a lot of these people will lie right to your face if they think they can extract money from you. Tuk tuk (auto) drivers seems to be among the worst for this.

Common Scams

You get into a taxi and you are told that the hotel that you made a reservation at has closed. Or has burned down. Or the fog is so bad that the city is closed (I’m not kidding). Of course they have a great deal on a run down, rat infested, flee trap of a hotel that their friend owns.

Or somebody approaches you on a train platform and tell you that the train has been cancelled. Then he tell you that he works for Indian Railways. Then he shows you an official ID (a fake of course). This person is trying to get you to go to a travel agent that will charge you a very large fee to take a car instead of the train.

Or somebody with a police uniform on (and a fake badge) tells you that the road to a fort is closed to traffic (even though many other cars are driving on it) but he can take you (he has special permission ) for Rp./2000. At least this one gets marks for creativity.

Making money

These people are obviously trying to make a living. The problem with this is that this kind of day to day annoyance starts to wear on you. You tend not to approach people anymore and you tend to ignore everybody that is talking to you. It’s not really a fun way to travel though a city.

Countryside

When I was out in the countryside around Ranthambore this did not happen. People were much more laid back and honest. I’m really hoping as I get down to Kerala things will be like that again. Jaipur in particular has been really bad. For every 100m I attempt to walk down the road, 2 or 3 people approach me with the “best” price on priceless jewelry. I have been told that sights are closed when you can actually see people inside of them.

Is there a solution?

There is no simple solution to this. Part of it seems to be a cultural thing. Lying and cheating has become the norm for some parts of India. It sounds depressing but it is true. There also seems no enforcement from the police to help with this. I’m not sure what the police do in this country, but it is not very effective.

One option that I have tried is hiring a taxi (or an Ola / Uber) for the day. At the very least that gives you a car to get back into once you have seen the sights. But this will most likely not stop the driver from “suggesting” that you go shopping for jewelry. This is because he gets paid commission if you buy at that shop.

I think maybe another solution is to get out of large Indian cities and into the countryside. I’m going to try that tomorrow by flying down to Kerala. Fingers crossed that the situation improves.

Ranthambore Fort

Other things to do around Ranthambore national park

So turns out that not everybody sees a tiger in the national park. Unfortunately I can add myself to that list. But I did find Ranthambore to be very calm and peaceful – something that I had not yet found in India.

In-between going on safaris, or if you just want to do something different you can go and visit Ranthambore Fort. The thing is huge and it is free (at least as of December 2019) – you just need to get a driver to take you there. I asked the hotel although this is probably not the cheapest, it is the easiest.

You need to hike up from the bottom. There are a lot of steps but they are not terribly steep.

Wildlife

One of the nice things about the fort, other than the hike, was the wildlife. There were a lot of monkeys around as you hike up. They seemed to be very used to people and none of them attempted to grab anything from me, but if you carry a backpack, make sure to keep it zipped up. I have had experience before when monkeys took things out of a bag as I was hiking 🙂

They are very good climbers with long tails

Monkey cry

The monkeys have a warning call if they sense danger and they have very good vision. So if they see a tiger (even a long way away) they will howl. Once you learn to recognize this warning call then you can look out into the distance to see if you can see a tiger (I still did not see one)

The park with the ranger station at the bottom

Views

On a clear day you will get some good views from the top of the fort. If you like hiking then this is a nice half day trip to do between safaris.