The cows of Inle

The Inle area is surrounded by many minority tribal groups.  Most of these live on the hillside in small rustic huts and survive by farming the land and raising some cattle or sheep.  Once or twice a month they may come into a major centre for supplies.  In the wet season this can be more problematic as the trails throughout the hills wash out.

Most of these trails are not very well marked, so I hired a guide.  The cost for the day was 10$ for a guide and lunch.  I was in a small group with 2 Americans.  I always wonder what kind of skills a trekking guide has, but I have always assumed that I probably know more about hiking than they do!  This time I think I was correct.
The dirt track here is the trail, so it’s pretty hard to get lost.  About one hour into the trek we had just ascended a steep section and the guide was about 30 metres in front of me, when he suddenly turns around and yells “oh f$#k” (this turned out to be his best English), and starts running toward me.  
When he realizes the trail is too narrow to pass, the fearless guide decides he would run off the trail and down the mountain!  Once he is out of the way I saw what he was running from, a cow.  Having had some experiance with cows before, I jumped up with my arms is the air and yelled at the thing.  As expected, the cow was not big on confrontations and ran in the opposite direction.
The poor guide clambered back up the hill looking very red.  After that we spent most of the afternoon making fun of the guide for being afraid of a cow!  Goodness knows what would of happened if we ran into something really dangerous!

Inle Lake

June is the start of the rainy season in Myanmar.  Throughout the last 2 weeks I have seen very little rain, but the last couple days have seen a few downpours.  Most of these have been overnight, but some have been in the daytime.

This is the view from my hotel room.  Usually these showers last for 15 minutes or so and then pass.  It’s not a problem if you are inside, but it’s a nuisance if you are hiking!
Hiking the hillside is one of the best things I have done in Inle lake.  It’s a difficult climb, and a guide is required, but it’s cheap and you get to meet a lot of locals living in very basic conditions in the mountains.  They don’t speak very much English, but they are very friendly and outgoing as they don’t see foreigners very often.  I was in a group of 3 and we ate lunch with them in a bamboo hut while we talked about village life.  Everyone is waiting for water after the dry summer months, so I am told that this rain us good for everyone.
Hiking trips differ from the boat trips on Inle lake that most tourists do, which seems to be more like a tourist trap.  Everywhere you go, you have people trying to sell you little trinkets which apparently cannot be found anywhere else in the world (the “Made in China” sticker did not help them to convince people of this). I found the whole experience to be overpriced and mildly irritating.  I really don’t think selling things in a temple is inline with any Bhuddist teaching.  Here was another place (read my post on Yangon) where there was a cash machine inside a pagoda.
Another alternative to the boat is to hire a bike and cycle around the lake.  Yes, it’s very hot and sweaty, but you meet a lot of locals, see interesting sights, and it’s good exercise!  They have a hot spa about 15km from town which was nice to relax and recover from the bike ride before continuing on.  $5 gets you in and the hot water is coming from the mountain.  It’s pretty rustic, but relaxing.
Overall, I like Inle lake, but for the people and the atmosphere, not really the boat trips that it is famous for. Unfortunately, as tourism takes off here, I think the touts and the overpriced trinkets are just going to increase.  For the sake of preserving a culture, I hope I am wrong.
Internet is terrible here, almost non-existent, but I will try to post some more pictures in the next couple of days.

Nay Pyi Daw

Nay Pyi Daw is the new capital city of Myanmar, it was moved several years ago from Yangon.  It’s on the Yangon-Mandaley highway and is not a bad place to overnight if you want a break instead of taking an overnight bus, train, or flight.  It’s also pretty close to Thazi, the jump off point for Inle lake.

This is parliament, and it’s as close as you can get unless you have business here.  It’s really in the middle of nowhere.  This city seems to be built to be spread out on purpose so you can’t walk anywhere and people can keep track of you.  To get to parliament, you drive on a 20 lane highway with no other cars.
Other than parliament, there is a reconstruction (copy) of Shewagon pagoda in Yangon.  There is also a zoo, with many animals moved from Yangon.  The place is interesting as I was one of the few people there, and the only foreigner.
They have a medium sized facility with two penguins.  Overall they seem to be healthy and well fed.  They also have an elephant camp.  Burma is one of the few countries left in the world that uses elephants domestically to work the land.  I’m not sure I agree with the practice, but for now it is what it is.
Again, they seem healthy with lots of space to run around in.  There are paddle boats and a children’s play park, but with nobody there, it just sits empty.
It’s an interesting experience, almost like it’s set up just for foreigners.  It’s certainly different from Yangon, where you can see the poverty, here it is mostly hidden from you, and your actions are are much more restricted.